Coquimbo, the IV Region
The Destination
Located in northern Chile in the region of Coquimbo, in a valley called Vicuña you will find one of Chile’s most mystical destinations: Valle de Elqui.
Valle de Elqui (or Elqui Valley – pronounced “el-key”), is most known for it’s production of wine (which you really must try!) and famous poet Gabriel Mistral, but there’s something even more special about this place. There is a special air about this place that I haven’t quite experienced elsewhere.
The valley itself is seemingly always sunny, with a warm desert-like climate and dry rocky terrain. It’s surrounded by mountainous hills, which create steep valleys and provide home for the Elqui River that travels through. Temperatures can be hot and unbearable in the summertime, but the landscape makes it all seem worth it as it really is breathtaking.
Magical, Mystical Elqui
Apart from its natural beauty, Valle de Elqui is believed to be quite a place of the cosmos. Many have commented on it’s magical energies. There are even articles claiming it home to one of earth’s energetic portals. If you go into the valley, you’ll find signs telling you that you’re standing within a magnetic center. Personally, I have not yet found any factual evidence to support this theory, but the story has been settled into the hills now for years.
Perhaps some of the electromagnetic energy being felt in the valley is due to the vast expanse of galaxies that can be seen on clear Elquian nights. Maybe the history of UFO sightings also play part. Or perhaps it could be rooted in traditions much older, found in the petroglyphs of ancestors that once were.
Again, I can’t attest to the cosmic powers of the valley, but many tourists have said to have left feeling energetically restored and spiritually in balance. A feeling more frequently sought after upon visiting the valley.
Alternative Therapies and Curative Arts
The practice of alternative therapies and curative arts in the region may also be a catalyst in one’s feeling of self-restoration in the valley. From body work, like spas, massage, and yoga to energy and mind work like meditation, breathwork, aura and tarot readings. There’s something for every soul searcher here in Elqui.
What to Do in the Mystical Valle de Elqui
I’ve mentioned a lot of the attractions already, but it’s always nicer to see these recommendations listed, don’t you think?
- Visit one of the local observatories to experience the wonders of the night sky
- Check out some of the pisco distilleries nearby
- Go see the drawings from ancient civilizations
- Try the curative powers of San Pedro
1. Local Observatories
With some of the clearest skies in the southern hemisphere, it’s no surprise that international organizations have established their astronomical observatories in the summits of Tololo and Pachón Hills.
Some of the best are: Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca, Observatorio del Pangue, and Alfa Aldea.
According to Chileans, the Mystical Valley de Elqui is the second best place (arguably the first) in the country for stargazing. Plan your trip according to the arrival of the new moon to ensure clear, star-filled skies.
(NASA always provides up-to-date info on the current moon phases.)
2. Magnetic Center
Located about 50min from Cosmo Elqui Valley Hostel (still within the interior of Valle de Elqui) is the small pueblo of Cochiguaz.
Here you can find paths for horseback riding, a park with plentiful options for hiking, a beautiful river (called Rio Magico) with camping nearby, and one of the main attractions for the petroglyphs: La Piedra de Guanaco. The huge rock is considered one of the most obvious traces of the ancient cultures of Diaguita, Molle, and Inca. Unfortunately, buses run very infrequently here, but don’t let that stop – Elqui is an excellent place to hitchhike!
The Chileans of the valley are extremely welcoming and don’t shy away from helping out a tourist, so stick that thumb out and see where it will take you!
3. San Pedro
If you’re unfamiliar with San Pedro (not the desert we’re talking about here), it’s a fast-growing cactus native to the valley used for traditional medicine, healing and divination.
It also contains mescaline, a psychadelic drug known for inducing alertations of perception, mood, consciousness, cognition or behavior (Wikipedia). If you find yourself interested in a little self-exploration, or you’re just plain curious, take time to discover this magical cactus plant. Mind you, it’s quite a journey (about 8 hours at least), so make sure you’ve set aside enough time.
It’s customary to do by ritual, so keep reading if you want to find out more on how to prepare your own.
The Mystical Elqui Experience: Cactus Edition
To prepare for your journey, you first need a cactus.
Set aside an entire day to hunt them (they aren’t super easy to find). Once you’ve located one or more, make sure you it’s big enough before you chop it down. Rule of thumb: 2-3 feet in height and about a palm in width is roughly the size you need for one person. Then, remove the pricks and slice the cactus into small pieces (the smaller they are, the faster they’ll cook – but it won’t be easy!) When you’re ready to cook the cactus, you will need a fire, 8-12 hours of your time, and enough wood/brush to supply your fire for that duration.
According to Chilean tradition, each person partaking in the cactus must pull their own weight in the preparation process in order to “earn their experience.”
(Don’t try to cook your cactus at the hostel – they know what you’re doing. Instead, ask kindly for a good place to build a fire. If you’re camping, you won’t have this issue.)
Where to Stay in Mystical Elqui
Hostel
If you’re looking to meet other travelers, prefer traveling lighter, or want to make use of the benefits of electrical outlets, a kitchen, etc. check out hostels in Valle de Elqui.
Here you will find some really neat places to stay. A traveler I met while volunteering at a hostel in Valpo recommended Cosmo Elqui Valley Hostel. And after experiencing the place myself, I too, forward this recommendation. The artistic location is super easy to find as it sits right offside the road, but it’s still secluded enough to be surrounded by nature – making it an excellent spot for stargazing.
The downside is that the location is pretty secluded, meaning no wifi, no internet and if you need groceries you’ll need to walk to a small store nearby (~10-15min walk).
Cosmo Elqui Valley Hostel does host a few guided tours. Including a night observing the sky in one of the hostel’s favorite stargazing locations.
Another tour includes a short walk to a body of water nearby. Unfortunately, during my stay, a fire burnt away a big portion of grass surrounding the water. At the time no one knew if the fire was intentional or due to a lack of caution by campers. So, if you’re here to camp, be aware and be careful. These dry climates ignite wildfires easily.
Camp
If you’re traveling with a tent and a proper camping setup, you can literally camp just about anywhere.
For those that want to sleep under the starry sky and enjoy the perks of running water, some hostels will allow you to camp onsite.
Cosmo Elqui Valley, for example, offers space under their dome to camp. (This is what I did.) The only inconvenience is having to move the tent in the morning to accommodate space for their (free) yoga class.
An easy sacrifice.
Other perks of Cosmo Elqui Valley Hostel
Aside from the beauty of a guided yoga sesh to start the day, mats are always readily available for use.
So, if you’re lacking a mat for your tent or are looking for some extra comfort, the staff is nice enough to let you use what you need – provided everything is accessible again come next morning. Of course, the hostel has rooms too. You can pick between the artsy domes next to the pool (which has fewer beds and is more expensive) or you can choose a bunk in their bigger dorms (more beds, less expensive). I didn’t stay in either of these rooms, but I had a friend staying in one of the domes. We both found the dome to be extremely stuffy during the hot summer days.
The lack of ventilation and the overall small size of the structure will not be your friend in summer – don’t expect to be hanging inside them much!
TIP 1: On the other side of the road from the hostel, is a small bridge over water. Here you can have a nice walk and circle around the community nearby. I, personally, enjoyed laying on the bridge at night listening to life.
TIP 2: The abandoned building is also a neat place to hike to for a dark view at the sky, but if this isn’t your thing, the hostel also offers night tours where they will take quality photos for you as well.
How to Get There
From Valparaiso to La Serena
I started from Valparaiso and took a bus.
In Valpo, go to the main bus terminal located at Avenida Pedro Montt 283. It can be somewhat tricky to find if you’re not familiar with the area and it can also be somewhat dangerous depending on the time of day you go. Keep your phone in your pocket and search for the Congress Building if you get lost. It’s nearby.
From here you can usually purchase tickets day of, but I’d recommend purchasing prior, especially for longer trips to ensure your spot.
Because there is no direct bus to Valle de Elqui, you have to go via La Serena.
The time it takes to get there varies greatly by night/day tickets as well as classes of service. (But you’re looking at roughly 7hrs travel time to La Serena).
The price also fluctuates depending on the day of the week. You can’t purchase from abroad, but if you’re already in Chile and it’s inconvenient for you to purchase directly from the terminal, check out www.turbus.cl. Choose “ida,” put in your cities and prospective dates and voilà!
TIP: Day buses tend to stop more frequently – so they take longer. Night buses typically arrive at La Serena at awkward hours, which may leave you waiting at the bus stop for a couple of hours before your next bus departs. There are also bus services leaving from Santiago, but OJO! Check which terminal your bus is leaving from!
From La Serena to Pisco Elqui (aka Mystical Elqui Valley)
At the terminal in La Serena, you’ll have a few options of bus names to take you to Elqui Valley.
Sol de Elqui and Via Elqui are two of them. The duration of bus ride here is on average 2h 30min and the buses usually run every 30 minutes. Know where to get off. For Cosmos Hostel, pay attention to the right side of the road ~2 hours in. (Check out the picture I posted above. That’s the exact same view you’ll get from the bus.) Unfortunately, you won’t see the dome rooms from the road and the hostel entrance building blocks the view from inside.
If you’re concerned about missing your stop, ask the driver to notify you when you need to hop off.
I could not refrain from commenting. Perfectly written!
Aw, thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed it! I’ll be writing more soon!